Sunday 2 May 2010

Yeh Hai Bombai Meri Jaan............For Lakshmi :-}

Disclaimer: Brevity may be the soul of wit but wit is the sole intention of this blog. Therefore insults or injuries to any City, living or dead, is purely unintentional. I love my India in all its varied States. India is my country and all Indians (not all..hehehe) are my brothers and sisters. I love my country and I am proud of its rich and varied heritage. Jai MAHA Rashtra!!
Okay, I guess that’s about all. I don’t want to go overboard with all this jingoistic Disclaimerism.......:-}


Yeh Hai Bombai Meri Jaan (Then)
(Published in Mumbai Mirror- Aug 9th 2005)



Have patience’our friends said when we landed here from Hyderabad and stumbled and grumbled. ‘The city will soon grow on you’. It’s been five months and I’m still waiting.

The first thing that hit me about Mumbai was its distinct smell. There’s definitely something “fishy” about it. As soon as we moved into our house in Badhwar Park, my husband and I traced the stench around the house and looked for a dead rat. There was none. I spent the next few minutes vigorously brushing my dog. The stench still persisted. We soon realized that the malodorous culprit was nowhere within bounds but seeped in the very air. Since we could not brush up nature or embark on a treasure hunt through a sniffing spree, we gave up. And then, in a few days we found that the stench had lessened. Or had our olfactory nerves been toughened?

Our next challenge was space. I speak not of the cosmos or the universe but of the limitations of living right here on earth. That of course I blame entirely on the Railways- for spoiling us with Bungalows that have so much legroom that sometimes there is a room for every leg in the house. Naturally after that any apartment anywhere would feel ‘flat’. But we overcame that too, after scrutinising the double-storeyed slums of the overpopulated, space constricted Mumbai. In fact now our 4BHK flat in posh Colaba feels like a luxury. And with a view of the sea that many consider ‘awfully scenic’ it is an extravagance. That after the Tsunami, a sea view sometimes feels cynically ‘awe’full, is a different thing altogether.


As the normal monsoons continued, every black fabric inside the almirah turned white with mildew. The dals changed colour faster than a chameleon. Forget about leather, there was mould even on gold. My spick and span Golden retriever who earlier retrieved err…not gold but socks, now started retrieving fleas from the environs. And one fine day I was shocked to find fungus forming on the buttons of the remote control. It was now time to panic!

Could I now risk sitting at one place for longer than a minute? I doubted. So I went about my chores stoically, always flitting from place to place. Meanwhile, I waited for the city to finally grow on me. Before something else started to grow! All the time, though, there was a song on my lips - a golden oldie that I adore: ‘Aye dil hai mushkil jeena yahaan/ Zara hatke, zara bachke/ Yeh hai Bambai meri jaan’.


Yeh Hai Bombai Meri Jaan (Now).........as in exactly two years later, while we were still there...:-}



I never realized I would soon be writing a sequel to an earlier article of the same name. It has been two eventful years in Mumbai- a city that would perhaps make Forest Gump mutter- ‘My momma would compare this playce to a box of chocolaytes.’ Only instead of the chocolaty aroma, one gets to have a whiff of assorted smells. And even after two years and a hardened olfactory system, some of the smells continue to be ‘fishy’.

Just as we were recovering from the opulence of multi- storeyed buildings and the indigence of double- storeyed slums, the Terrible Torrential Tuesday happened. And then the train blast took place. Not only do I now revere space, I am also so acclimatized to the capricious clouds that if one fine day they burst and it started raining Gods, I would hardly be surprised. And of course, in the aftermath of the bomb blasts, I also got to see a spirit of the city that evaporated a little of my misgivings.

After eight years of being unavailable, my once sparkling Champagne is now a permanent home to non-paying, bloodsucking tenants called Fleas. Come on guys, even with the dearth of shelters, a dog can hardly qualify as a dwelling. Although now I take pride in the fact that he must be the ‘most wanted’ Golden Retriever in Colaba.

I no longer hear the golden sounds of silence either. But who cares? The disruptive chaos of honking horns and screeching tyres now deliciously meld into my dreams. On the contrary, if Nature suddenly started to coo, it would probably make for a blockbuster called ‘Sleepless in Colaba’.

The multitude of crowds that initially gave an impression of a perpetual rally-on-roads, now serve as a picturesque backdrop to a host of paintings entitled ‘Scenic Mumbai’. And living in Planet Bollywood, seeing stars even in broad daylight seems nothing out of the ordinary.

Now I have also developed a cure for the mould. The naphthalenes coexist with the wardrobe. And the dals, on sound advice from my kids, ‘Just Chill’ inside the fridge. If I had my way and if there was enough room in the fridge I would also put the remote control. And it has nothing to do with the fact that the World Cup is starting tomorrow. Hmmph!

Happy Anniversary, I tell myself. My two year warranty period of waiting for the city to grow on me is just about over. ‘So, do you like the place now? Do you still want to move?’ my friends ask.
Do I? The answer echoes in the refrains of the golden oldie that I still continue to hum. Only, the lyrics have kind of altered. And some lines are kind of forgotten.

‘Ey dil, hai hmmm hmmm, jeena yahan

Laa la la laa, hmm hmm..hm..hm…

Yeh hai Bambai meri jaan!

Jai Maharashtra!!

9 comments:

arun bhatt said...

Really magnificient. All I can say about the writer is:

Bombay say gaya mera dost,
dost ko salaam karo!!!!


Your writeup really captures the essence of coping up with life in Mumbai. Since gaane shaane key mood mein sab hain I think these lines too sum up the contradictions of this great city:

Koi bandar nahin,
lekin naam hey bandra,
Church ka gate hey magar,
Churh hey lapata

You are right, in amchi mumbai one really gets flummoxed by fleas, fungus, filmi crowd and the fishy smell.

Venu N said...

Gosh Nargis, I did not know that living in Bombay could be such a nightmare! I thought Colaba was one of the poshest places, and generally Indian Railways chooses the swankiest of locations for its bungalows, no?

I had a similar nightmare living near College Street, Calcutta for 6months way back in the mid-80s. I can draw a parallel with your torrid experience at Mumbai.

Anyways, does any of you remember that old song 'Bom Bom Bom Bom, Bombay meri hai, Ladies are nice, Gents of full of spice, come to Bombay, Come to Bombay, Bombay meri hai..''?

arun bhatt said...

Hey Venu,

For God's sake don't call it a nightmare. If I have guessed correctly you would have been in Prantik Hostel, just behind Presidency college.

Yes there was knee deep water during monsoons.

Yes the food was Yuuuuckkkk.

Yes the power cuts were long and terrible.

Yes the faculty was anti-SAIL (remember Ms. Lilian Mitter)

But just think of all that we went thru what Calcutta symbolises...

The maidan before the Victoria Memorial...

Eden Gardens...

Books, Books BOOOOOKs and BOOOOOOOks in college street....

The coffee house in college street...

The chowmein in thelas,
the teas, the singdas, the jhal mooris...

Do you know what, when I was recollecting these memories with Vims once he actually mailed me some awesome pictures of the coffee house of College street so that I could blog about probably the worlds largest coffee house in the world.

Agreed Calcutta is no New York. But for me calcutta would always be Oh! Calcutta.

Lakshmi Patro said...

Hi Nargis...Good write up. I appreciate your strong sense of smell. hey just kidding... I totally agree with all your observations of this city. The fishy smell, double storeyed slums, the fleas, the rains, the honking horns etc etc.
I feel wherever you live its the people who matter the most. By God's grace I was surrounded by people who made all these misgivings insignificant. I used to enjoy even my 1.30hrs local train travel to office because of my train friends which otherwise would be a nightmare.

Chowpaaty jayiye...Bhel puri Khayiye
Dadar Jayiye...Chabildaas ka wada khayiye
Marine drive pe baithiye..Thandi hawa khayiye


Fishy smell nahin toh fish nahin...
Slums nahin toh Bai(kaam wali) nahin....
Rains nahin toh paani nahin...
Honking horns nahin toh Gaadi nahin...
Crowd nahin toh Mumbai hi Nahin...

Nargis said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Nargis said...

Arun: Were you still in mumbai when we were here? Maybe then you were not blogging. But aaj kal toh blogging gaya tel lene, bahut tweeting shweeting chal raha hai...;-}

Venu: We were living in what is supposed to be one of the poshest localities...The Ambani's home was quite close to our place. In fact while walking towards Colaba Woods, I've seen Tina many a time ...but I must say the smells and the fleas of mumbai are very fair....they don't favour any locality...they exist everywhere :-}

Lakshmi: WOW....the last few lines are truly amazing...!! Maybe you can add that in your post :-}
Yes, it is the company which matters and even we had a lovely group out there...in fact when we we were posted there we didn't want to go and when we were transferred we didn't want to move...:-}

Enarkay said...

All I can say is
"SVC se aaya mera dost
Dost ko salaam karo!
The SAIL office used to be on the 9th floor of Express Towers, Nariman Point overlooking the HOT(Hotel Oberoi Towers) which had a swimming pool on the second floor. All widndow seats on that side were hogged by the bosses:)Hence their windows were mostly open( inspite of the airconditioning)
One day there was a huge storm and all the inconvenient files( like audit queries etc) went flying into the swimming pool giving the bosses a chance to remark 'all files irritrievably drowned in the HOT swimming pool'!!!leaving the audit dept flummoxed!

Faiyaz said...

Great write up Nargis!
Wouldn't it be Cool if all the IPL Files land up in the Pool!
Just Chill!!

Nargis said...

NRK and Faiyaz.....In this heat I'm almost envying those files in the pool....:-}